Nimitz class aircraft carrier, rows of F-18 Hornets, AWAC planes, helicopters, all sitting pretty under the American flag... do I want to take a trip out there?
Yep!
So Gabriel and I set out for Fenwick pier down in Wanchai where the launches out to the carrier originate. Years ago the U.S. Navy set up a "Fleet Arcade" at the pier to accommodate the thousands of sailors who spend their shore leave in the territory. There are retails shops, ATM, American style food, Internet etc. Even when ships are not in town its fun to head down there to buy some "American" stuff.
My son and I were led out to the pier and onto a 90 seater launch for the 30 minute ride out to the
George Washington. I sat down next to a blurry eyed young man who still had more than a faint trace of booze on his breath. We chatted on the ride and it turned out he was one of the young pilots who had spent the evening in one of the local Hong Kong watering holes. "I told myself I wasn't going to be out all night, to get back and sleep on the ship, "he said, "...that didn't quite happen."
As a pastor I thought I should come up with some spiritual consoling but all I was able to muster was, jokingly, if he was going to "hurl" on the bumpy ride to let me know so I can get out of the way. He smiled and said, "Will do.".
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| On the flight deck |
If I'm honest the little boy comes out in me in these situations because when I was a teen-ager all I wanted was to be a fighter pilot...and here was Mr. "Top Gun" himself. (Granted it was Mr. "Top Gun" after a night in Wanchai). We chatted on the way out and he said how he's learned not to assume they will actually be able to land in Hong Kong until his foot touches Hong Kong Island. That's because often China will use Hong Kong shore leave for the Americans as a diplomatic tool. "If we've sold a missile to Taiwan, or one of our ships goes through the Taiwan Strait, I know we aren't going to Hong Kong." he said. In 2009 the
George Washington was due to spend Thanksgiving in the territory. Family members from America flew out to spend the holiday with their sons when, just hours before the ship was to enter Hong Kong, China denied entry and the whole fleet sailed off back out to sea.
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| Sitting in the Captain's Chair |
Of course Hong Kong bears the real brunt of China's decision as local businesses lose about US one million dollars that these visits pump into the local economy. The pilot went on to say some of the "old guys" on the ship liked to reminisce about when the British had Hong Kong and there was no diplomatic tension as "we were entering the port of an ally."
Another thing the pilot said really struck me. I asked him what they generally did out on the sea and he replied a lot of flying and drills but, "when we heard about the flooding in Thailand we began moving the fleet in that direction in case they asked us for humanitarian assistance." I thought, "Wow". You have to give old Uncle Sam credit. We moved our whole fleet on the off chance we may be called upon to save lives. It made me proud as an American to think we're still the "good" guys...mostly.
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| View from the bridge |
After about 30 minutes we reached the
George Washington and docked with the pier set up at the rear of the ship. We were ushered out and down a long hallway decked out to receive visitors into the hanger bay where a number of aircraft had been set out specifically for display. The ship is huge and the hanger bay can accommodate 70 aircraft. A large American flag and Chinese flag was set up side by side undoubtedly for public relations purposes.
We were escorted to one of the hanger elevators that carry the planes from the hanger bay up to the flight deck. The elevator can carry 2 planes at a time and was surprisingly fast...as I suppose it would have to be if you are in a battle.
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| My apartment as seen from the flight deck |
The flight deck is huge and were told that they can launch 2 fighters every 45 seconds. And as big as that deck looked, I imagine to a pilot trying to land on it...it looked pretty small. In fact one of the pilots told us that when a pilot is landing and misses the cables on the deck that helps him stop and has to swing around for another pass, thats called "bolting". When the pilot gets back there is a bolt hanging over his cabin door and it stays there until the next pilot "bolts" and then he gets it.
Gabriel and I climbed the many levels finally reaching the bridge where we were given a tour and explanation of how things operate up there. We even got to sit in the "Captain's Chair"...which for a guy, its pretty cool.
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| Gabriel with F- 18 fighter pilot! |
After about an hour Gabriel and I left the
U.S.S. George Washington and headed back to Fenwick Pier with great memories of our time together on the ship. And because the American restaurant was in full swing with sailors watching American football on big screen TV's, We treated ourselves to the best American cheeseburgers we'd had in a LONG time!
If you are thinking of tackling the Coast to Coast, here are some things to consider:
Day 11: Ingleby Cross to Clay Bank Top
The next day we prepared for our much shorter journey of 12 miles to Clay Bank Top. After a pleasant journey (all uphill mind you) through a beautiful stretch of woods, you suddenly break out into the open fields and begin the first day of traveling across the moors of England.
Gabriel limped at the beginning but eventually the foot worked itself out...we were on our way.
About 8:00 PM we arrived at Ingleby Cross and at this point I was wishing we were staying here and not at the B &B a mile further on. We bypassed the pub even though we were very hungry as my guide said the place we were staying at provided food. Besides it was getting late and I knew the hosts would start to worry soon. Sure enough as we approached, and all terrain vehicle approached and our landlady, Beverly, had just headed out to see if we were OK.
We walked the last 1/2 mile (all up hill) to the Park House.
WE HAD MADE IT! I can't think of a time I was more proud of my son. With this behind us I knew we could make it the next four days to Robin Hood's Bay!
2) They were sold out!
But the guy at the ticket booth said when they sold out, they offered 10 "standing room" tickets for £10. £10 to see Les Miz in London?...Sold!!
The next day we had another London Walk this one being a Beatles tour. Gabriel got to see where the guys had lived in London, where they filmed A Hard Day's Night, where they got married (at least the first times) etc.
In 12 hours Gabriel and I will begin a journey 16 years in the making. We our packing our suitcases and backpacks and assuring ourselves that what ever we forget we'll be able to purchase in England. Hiking boots? Check. Walking sticks? Check. Blister creme? Double check check!! Soon we'll be off to Hong Kong International Airport. From there a quick trip to Shanghai and then a LONG flight to London, England.
As I read the article I was fascinated by the thought, and the challenge, of walking across the whole of the country. I turned to Tammy and almost said prophetically, "When we have a son I'm going to take him on this walk when he turns 13." Well, two years later we had that son, and 14 years later we are fulfilling that dream I have kept ever since then. We postponed actually doing it last year when he was 13 as we were all pleasantly surprised by the birth of the late addition to the Hackman family: Ethan George
Last week I received an e-mail from a friend at the U.S. Consulate. He said be that the U.S.S. George Washington would be in Hong Kong for a few days and would I like to go out with a guest and have a tour? Mmmm...let me think this over for 5 tenths of a second?
My son and I were led out to the pier and onto a 90 seater launch for the 30 minute ride out to the George Washington. I sat down next to a blurry eyed young man who still had more than a faint trace of booze on his breath. We chatted on the ride and it turned out he was one of the young pilots who had spent the evening in one of the local Hong Kong watering holes. "I told myself I wasn't going to be out all night, to get back and sleep on the ship, "he said, "...that didn't quite happen." 
At one point Gabriel and I could see Disneyland in the distance. The tall spiral of Space Mountain could clearly be seen. We arrived finally in Discovery Bay, and I must admit it has been a long time since I visited there. I understand why many Westerners in Hong Kong like to make it their home as it certainly caters to the Western taste in food and surroundings.
Gabriel and I grabbed a lunch at Ebeneezer's where we had a lamb curry...and French Fries :) The plan had been to then walk to Sunny Bay and catch the MTR home from there but we realized we were running short on time and that trail would take at least another 3 hours...so we took the bus instead. 
For example, on the same day that I read the quote in the paper, Tammy and I had lunch at Taco Loco; a Mexican restaurant in SoHo just off the mid-levels escalator. Our server was a Filipino and she was the perfect hostess and waitress. She chatted with us, helped get food that Ethan George could eat, and made some accommodations that we wouldn't have bothered to ask for if she hadn't been so hospitable.
Back when Hong Kong was a British territory, British nationals could come to Hong Kong and work visa free. Then the predominately English speaking areas like Lan Kwai Fong's many nightclubs and restaurants were populated by young Brits back packing across the world who took advantage of the territory's colonial status to stop and make a few bucks before heading out again. After 1997 that loophole was closed and the hospitality staff in those areas abruptly changed. 
